Rock Climbing Hazards
The Mountains
Are Indifferent
A small book about the hazards of outdoor climbing.
Rope Wranglers · Boulder, Colorado
Disclaimer
Climbing is inherently dangerous and can lead to serious injury or death.
You should be very aware of the possible consequences.
Climbing outside can be wonderful. And we all want to return to our loved ones. The rock is indifferent, and you must stay diligent at all times.
You must be aware of the possible hazards and their consequences. Then you will know what to watch for and, with time and experience, build the judgment to move more freely in the mountains.
Fear and caution are powerful protectors. A mentor or guide is highly recommended.
The First Hazard
Falling
The hazard: A fall. From the wall or from rocks that come loose under your hands and feet.
Consequence: A short fall can sprain or break a bone. A long fall, with no rope or a mistake in the rope system, can hurt you badly or end a life.
A proper rope and belay system is how climbers mitigate the falling hazard.
A proper top-rope system reduces the fall hazard and allows a new climber to climb high and be lowered safely.
Rocks exfoliate from the climbing wall.
Every rock at the base of the cliff was once part of the cliff.
The hazard: A rock breaks loose high above and falls. A climber above can knock one down too, even by accident.
Consequence: A falling stone the size of an egg can split a scalp. One the size of a fist can knock you out. Bigger ones could break bones or kill you.
In the Flatirons and Eldorado, much of the rock is old sandstone and conglomerate. Some of it is solid, and some of it is easily breakable.
Wearing a helmet can be the difference between a trip to Neptune Mountaineering to buy a new helmet and the emergency room—or the morgue.
The Colorado Sky
The weather changes its mind quickly here.
The hazard: Afternoon thunderstorms, especially in summer. Lightning, sudden cold, and rock that turns slick and dangerous when wet.
Consequence: Lightning on an exposed cliff is deadly. Wet rock makes holds slippery. Cold and rain can chill the body, even in summer.
In Boulder, a bright morning can become a dark sky by one o'clock. The mountains build their own weather.
An old saying goes, "If you don't like the weather, wait five minutes." Track weather and always have a bail plan and layers.
The Honest Thing No One Likes
Most accidents are human and often preventable.
The hazard: A knot tied wrong. A buckle not finished. A rope that runs off its end. Saying "we're fine" instead of doing a real check.
Consequence: The most serious climbing accidents often come not from the wild mountain but from a small, quiet mistake by a complacent person.
In a way, this can be good news. We cannot control the mountain. But our checks, our habits, and our honesty about what we do not know yet—those are ours.
Confidence can feel like safety. But it is not the same thing. Stay vigilant and aware.
Where We Climb, Near Boulder
Three places, three sets of manners.
The Flatirons
Iconic, tilted slabs of sandstone above Boulder. Beautiful and relatively approachable. The rock can be inviting, but weather and route finding have led many parties astray.
Boulder Canyon
Steep granite walls beside a road and a creek. Routes developed over many generations include sport, trad, and mixed climbs, sometimes on the same wall. Falling rock, fast water below, and traffic nearby all ask for attention.
Flagstaff
The mini Flatirons, close to the city, where many people learn. "Small" does not mean "safe." There are still many tall formations, and even small falls can be catastrophic.
Each crag has its own unique hazards. Part of learning to climb is learning to stay aware and mitigate hazards as well as you can.
Why a Climbing Guide?
You don't have to learn this alone.
Every hazard in this book is something a guide considers and manages for you while you learn: the knots, the helmet, the weather, the loose rock, and the checks.
A guide is not there to make the mountain safe. No one can. A guide is there so the risk is understood, managed, and much, much smaller, while you can focus on enjoying the wonderful part of climbing.
The truth about danger is not a reason to stay home. But blindly walking into a dangerous area is not a good strategy, either.
The mountain is indifferent to our suffering.
Now you know some of what you need to watch for.
If you're not ready to go out alone, climb with a certified guide who has spent years learning exactly this.
Rope Wranglers · AMGA-certified guiding · Boulder, Colorado
Accidents in North American Climbing · 1990–2019
What the accidents teach
2,724 real climbing accidents, sorted and tagged. Pick a question below and explore what the record actually shows.